Over The Hill

“Can we follow you down?”, “Where did you start from this morning?", and “Are you doing it the opposite way around?". Questions posed to us while enjoying another day on Beinn Odhar. The context of the first question is a little lengthy, but here goes.

Shortly after leaving Tyndrum and as we were nearing the point where you cross the railway bridge over the West Highland Railway to take to the open hillside for Beinn Odhar, we noticed a couple of walkers cross over the Crom Allt on a makeshift bridge 50 metres or so before the main railway bridge. This makeshift bridge is part of some Scottish Water workings on the Crom Allt, meaning that once they were over the river, they would have to pass under the railway line and end up on the wrong side of the river for an approach to Beinn Odhar, not an easy thing to accomplish as the river is enclosed in a steep gorge as it flows from it’s source in Coire Dubh just below the summit of Beinn Odhar. But, then again, were they heading for Beinn Odhar, or just exploring?

As we crossed the railway bridge and onto the open hillside, we were then distracted by the sight of a brand new deer fence which has been erected just beyond the railway line. Thankfully there is an access gate, and further up an exit gate which allows you to follow the grassy path up the hillside. Together with the new fence and observing the progress of the two walkers on the opposite side of the river as they continued to climb up the grassy strip between the gorge and the forest we had an interesting discussion as to why was this area now fenced off, and just where were the two walkers heading for. Were they actually heading for Meall Buidhe, albeit an unusual route, and not Beinn Odhar as we had previously thought. They were certainly not showing any signs of trying to descend and cross the Crom Allt, although at times they seemed to stop and look across at us just as we were looking at them, however the distance was just to great to attempt any verbal contact, if in fact that would have helped the situation.

As we continued up the grassy zig zag track heading for the old mine workings, so the two walkers continued to contour above the gorge heading for a set of crags before we lost them as they appeared to attempt to climb up the crags. As we climbed, they remained unseen for some time until eventually we spotted them just below the skyline, above the crags and heading in the direction of Lochain Choire Dhuibh. This brought us some relief, as they were at least on a safer track now, one which we ourselves have use in the past to approach and climb Beinn Odhar from Meall Buidhe. With the old mine and un-named lochan behind us, all that lay ahead was the final 150m climb over the boulders to the cairn on the 901m summit of Beinn Odhar.

The summit was a cloudy, mist one, with no views, so we settled down for our lunch, and in anticipation of being joined at some point by two others who had come by a somewhat unorthodox route to the same misty summit. And appear they did some time later, touching the cairn and then heading directly towards us, “Hello” they said, “You came up the way we meant to, if you are going back the same way, can we follow you down?” The English was very good, but in fact they were two young Germans spending two weeks touring Scotland, they had been to Skye, down through Glen Coe and were staying in Tyndrum. They had simply crossed the Crom Allt at the wrong point, and then continued on without realising the crags and how steep the hillside was on their side. They did have to back-track in the crags as they encountered some very loose rocks at one point. However, they made it, and now were under the guidance of we three, if that was any consolation!

By the time we had descended to the old mine and onto the more distinct grassy path, we left the two to explore the entrance to the mine and we continued our descent, stopping for an early afternoon tea at which point the couple passed us, thanking us for our assistance and continued on their way back to Tyndrum with us following shortly behind.

Two questions are still unanswered, but those who know Beinn Odhar and the West Highland way can probably guess the answers as, on the return you are walking against the flow of West Highland Way walkers, so it was with no surprise that we should be asked “Where did you start from this morning?” and when we turned, pointed to Beinn Odhar and replied “Up there.” the facial expression changed to Oh! And likewise, when asked “Are you doing it the opposite way around?” our reply was, “No, we have just been up there?” bringing a similar Oh! response.

All in a days adventure in the mountains. Brilliant, thanks again Ian and Mike.